A bit of pumpkin overload and some mild carotenemia have me ready for a break from fall flavors. Coconut Key Lime by Phin and Phebes (pronounced Finn and Feebs) is the perfect sub-tropical oasis.
The electric green glow of many key lime pie ice creams and desserts never seem to foretell greatness, and is no substitute for well-balanced key lime flavor. As you see in the photos, Coconut Key Lime does not make that attempt to prove its identity.
This is the best key lime ice cream I've ever tasted. The tangy lime flavor plays nicely with the creamy, coconut tinged base, so there is no confusion about it - this is premium ice cream. This pint avoids the cloyingly sweet, sorbet-like taste characteristic of many other key lime pie ice creams. The incredibly creamy texture of the ice cream is exceptional. The coconut flavor is understated, but makes its presence known. Graham cracker crumbs are spread evenly, in a ladylike fashion. No enormous troves, concentrated clusters or oversized pieces here, nor are there in any Phin and Phebes pint. Consistency and balance are the dominant themes.
To my surprise, this is not one of their best selling flavors. People just need to taste it and that would change. Phin and Phebes take straightforward, natural ingredients and spin them into magic here. Track them down and taste it for yourself.
Where Elliot Found It: Straub's Market
Elliot's Grade: A