Saturday, August 17, 2013

READER REVIEW: Winston's Review of Jeni's Loveless Biscuits + Peach Jam

Thanks to the Ice Cream Informant’s timely updates on all things ice cream related, I learned of the existence of Jeni’s “Loveless Biscuits and Peach Jam” via his website the same day Jeni announced it. The incredible description convinced me to visit my local scoop shop only several hours later. The teaspoon sized sample provided by the scoop shop representative proved more than enough for me to shell out the $10 required take this unique creation home.

There’s no sense in discussing the aesthetics of this dessert beyond what is obvious from my pictures: it’s beautiful. The label (pictured at the end), promises 250 calories per serving, which is actually quite modest for premium desserts. While the ingredient list more closely reflects a Breyers dessert in length, I suppose that’s expected considering the inclusion of white flour based baked goods.

How does it taste? On first spoonful, the first thought that came to mind is “Buttermilk”. This stuff screams buttermilk and in a very delicious way. The subtle and remarkably unique buttermilk sourness pairs itself with a relatively creamy foundation and a distinct saltiness that is very uncommon in ice cream. So salty, in fact, that each serving provides 15% of your daily sodium requirement, which is more than double the salt of Ben and Jerry’s Peanut Butter Cup (another salty favorite of mine), and and almost double the salt content of Talenti’s Sea Salted Caramel (which only provides 8%). I’m a huge fan of salt, and I add it to almost everything. Therefore, I absolutely loved this base.

The Jam is incredible. Made with Peach Schnapps, it definitely has a very pleasant sweetness and a unique tartness to it that contrasts the sour and salty base perfectly. It doesn’t taste like mass produced Jam: the Schnapps definitely delivers unique tart notes that add yet another flavor layer to the already confusing and exciting flavor collaboration. As an added plus, the Jam makes its way into almost every bite.

The biscuits deliver a blissful texture and flavor contrast to this dessert and perfectly compliment the Jam and the base. They don’t overwhelm the palate with rich flavor, as they taste exactly like moist buttermilk biscuits; instead, they primarily provide additional texture to the complex and rich base and jam swirl, leaving you salivating for yet another spoonful.

Given the uniqueness of this flavor, I understand why it’s not being distributed to grocery stores nationwide (but you can order it). That said, as a fan of buttermilk, and as someone that loves all things salty, this pint definitely catapults itself into my top 3 Jeni's flavors released to date, and could quite possibly be my #1 Jeni's flavor.

Where Winston Found It: Jeni's Splendid
Grade: A

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